So this doesn’t come up a whole lot on my blog, but I spent about 10 years of my childhood growing up in Ghana, West Africa (and Cote d’Ivoire). The last time I visited was in 2008 and I wish I could go again. There are so many things I miss about Ghana, but what I miss the most is the FOOD. So flavorful, carby, filling, fatty, sticky, spicy…. ahhh! When I get cravings for West African food, the place to go is Itaewon, in the alleyway behind the police station. There are two restaurants that I know of. Happy Home Restaurant which I blogged about here, and then another one right next to it on the first floor. The place used to be called ‘Mama’s Restaurant,’ but it recently got new ownership and a new name: ‘African Heritage Restaurant‘.

*ahem*, sorry about the lighting in this photo…. It was night time and, well, the main entrance is a bit grisly to begin with. But don’t judge a restaurant too much by its cover~~~

The interior is basic and a bit dingy but the people and atmosphere are really welcoming~ I love that whenever I go to a West African restaurant here, there are always more guys just hanging out than there are actual customers. :) Oh and the upbeat music! Makes me wanna go to a chop bar. Anyway, one of my friends here is Nigerian-American and she’s been missing some ‘home food’ too, so we and another friend all went for dinner. We ordered four dishes (half veggie, half not) and shared them. The server was really accomodating in letting us modify the dishes to make them vegan or at least have the meat on the side so that I could enjoy it too.

In Ghana, this bean stew is called ‘red-red’ (or just ‘beans’ in Nigeria) and it’s typically served with fried plantain. This was one of my fave dishes, along with groundnut soup. They usually add fish or other meat to the dish, but we asked them to leave it out for us. It was definitely a bit oilier than I’d like, but it’s pretty normal for there to be a pool of palm oil around the edge.

Plantains~~~~~!!! Such a rare sight in Korea. I especially love plantains when they are deep fried, really gooey & ripe, and dark from all the caramelization. These were more on the dry chewy side, but still yummy~ I’m good with plantains cooked any which way. Really, I’m not going to complain when I’m in the very non-tropical country of Korea.
Now let’s talk about the fufu. Since yams & cassava are probably impossible to find here, I knew they would use boxed fufu flour. I’ve never had the instant version before, so I didn’t really know what to expect. Traditionally, fufu is made from pounding freshly boiled yams, cassava, and/or maybe some plantain for a super long time until it becomes this sticky doughy mass. And then with wet hands, they will pull off a chunk of the fufu and shape it into a smooth round ball, before plating it with some stew. I love seeing the plump white ball of fufu peeking out from a bowl of stew or soup~~

So, I was rather disappointed when this unshapely chunk came out the way it did. I was really hoping they would’ve at least shaped it into a nice round ball… I know it’s just a minor presentation thing, but I care about these things~! Anywayyyy~ the taste and texture itself actually wasn’t bad… Considering it came from a box, it was actually pretty good. Perhaps not as gummy/doughy as real fufu, but it went well with the beans and I still enjoyed it!

When it comes to fufu, you gotta eat it with your hands. :) Just pull off some of the fufu, mush it a bit with some stew to pick up the saucy goodness, and push it into your mouth with your thumb. haha that sounds so weird. This reminded me so much of Ghana!!! *sob*

Jollof rice, a popular rice dish served in West Africa, made with tomatoes, tomato paste, onions, red pepper, and palm oil. It’s usually served with chicken, beef or dried fish, but we asked them to serve the meat separately, since I was with omnivores. Jollof rice was never one of my favorite dishes because I always found it a bit bland and boring, but I was happy to see it here. :)

Near the front of the restaurant, there are some shelves with West African products. Tons of palm oil everywhere.

You can buy your own fufu flour~ Perhaps next time I’ll give it a go.

Man, I literally grew up on Nido (milk powder) because fresh dairy milk was never available in Ghana. Which is probably why I didn’t actually grow much, or at least it’s what I tell myself. You’re supposed to mix it with water to get drinkable milk, but I actually preferred eating the powder dry. By the spoonful, straight outta the can. Too bad I’m vegan now, or I’d have bought a can or two or three. And Milo! Do you say “mee-lo” or “my-lo”?
Anyway, eating here definitely took me back to my childhood and brought back so many memories. If you’re looking for a new cultural experience here in Seoul, check this place out.
Directions: Itaewon Station, Line 6, exit 3. Come out the exit, turn around and pass Taco Bell. Turn left into the first alley after Taco Bell. Walk straight up about 50 meters. African Heritage will be on your left, first floor. The entrance is very inconspicuous, so don’t miss it! website

And in closing, I leave you with a few pics from my last trip to Ghana (Accra & Tamale). BTW, if there is anyone in Seoul who hails from Tamale, Ghana, get in touch!
Feel free to leave a comment!

February 19, 2013 at 7:19 am
Oh they called it Nido over there. Here in Malaysia it’s Nespray =). Oh Milo we have so many varieties here it’s like heaven of Milo hehehe…..
February 19, 2013 at 7:43 am
Whoa. Gawn go there!
Mipa, are you an MK?
February 21, 2013 at 11:04 pm
Hey Grace, yes! :) MK.
February 24, 2013 at 12:33 pm
Mipa! Me too! And I’ve been to Accra. Should we get together?
February 24, 2013 at 2:02 pm
wutttt. yes. email or FB message me. :P
February 19, 2013 at 11:17 am
I have very limited cooking/eating experiences with African food, though that red-red dish sure looks good! African cuisines is something I should really start exploring, though I’m not sure how much veg-friendly stuff there is. I’d probably start with Ethiopian, which seems to have a number of veg dishes. I’ve looked for cookbooks but even for Ethiopian cooking there doesn’t seem to be a proper veg/vegan cookbook out there. There are some Ethiopian vegan food stalls at some of the food markets in London, and I really wish they would write a cookbook or do some cooking classes… For the rest of Africa, I’m really clueless when it comes to their food, and all my African friends never much helped because they simply could not understand why one would not eat meat….
I’m surprised there is no cassava in Korea! They do seem to have it all over the world, it’s a traditional food in parts of Latin America but also in some parts of Asia (Indonesia/Philippines). I guess it’s not hot enough in South Korea to grow it? Still wonder if you wouldn’t be able to get it in some ethnic food stores (but I may be too spoiled – living in London, you can get nearly everything – only failed with the Kabocha powder and natto starter so far…).
Plantains!!! I love them green, I love them ripe, I love them as crisps. Should get some and make something nice, though in my case it would be some Costa Rican dish (patacones!!!).
P.S. I say “Meelo”.
February 21, 2013 at 11:04 pm
Hi Alua! I love Ethiopican food! Sadly there isn’t any Ethiopian restaurant in Seoul, or I’d be all up in it. I haven’t seen cassava here in Korea yet… it’s just not something Koreans are familiar with and there’s probably not enough demand for it to be imported. Not too sure though.
February 19, 2013 at 8:29 pm
fufu looks a lot like garaeddeok…tastes similar?
February 21, 2013 at 10:59 pm
Hm, not really. I think fufu has a little more taste, and the texture is much softer. Garaeddeok is pretty firm in comparison.
February 25, 2013 at 1:13 pm
nommmmmy ~~~ i called it red stew or mia. best. comfort. food. ever. other than kimchi jjigae.
i think i’ve been to the same restaurant – and found it amusing that it took just as long to get food there as it used to in nigeria.
ㅋㅋㅋ
March 1, 2013 at 1:50 am
Hi Eunice! Where you from, btw? :) Did you live in Nigeria?
March 3, 2013 at 3:33 am
I did live in Nigeria ~ for about ten years. :)
February 25, 2013 at 1:14 pm
and i say MY-low. and it’s mine. haha.
March 4, 2013 at 8:03 am
good place to eat african food
April 14, 2013 at 2:20 am
Thank you so much for your post! I nearly cried when they brought me out that lovely fufu and sauce. Made me so homesick, but in a good way :-)
I would like to suggest a slight revision to the directions you gave. I never go to Itaewon, and as a result, had difficulty following the directions given. I believe the current directions are unclear for anyone who does not know where the Taco Bell is. I ended up having to grab a passing African (which turned into a lovely convo :-) to ask where the place that serves fufu is.
Please consider revising to:
“Itaewon Station, Line 6, exit 3. When you reach the top of the stairs, turn around to face in the opposite direction of your exit. Follow the block around the corner, past the Taco Bell (on your left) and stop at the first alley after the Taco Bell. Turn left into the alley. Walk straight up about 50 meters. African Heritage will be on your left, first floor. The entrance is very inconspicuous, so search carefully.”